My grandfather used to tell me all the time that I was his favorite grandchild. True, at the time, I was his only grandchild, but never mind. I ate it up. I giggled and nearly squealed over in delight and proudly repeated it to everyone who could hear. I think even later on, when my mother's other sisters started having kids of their own, I was still his favorite. I knew because he never offered to cook anything for anyone else. Oh, he'd kindly offer his daughters, their husbands and kids something to eat whenever they came around to visit, whatever was on the stove or in the fridge was theirs to take. But it was only whenever my mother and I came that you'd ever hear him cook an entirely new dish to celebrate our visit. "Tara, mag-luto tayo ng masarap!" he'd say excitedly and set up a chair for me in the kitchen so I could watch. I don't really recall now if I had ever offered to help - to peel, slice or dice anything - but I think I must have and it was only because he never let me that I didn't get a chance to get my hands dirty. "Upo ka lang dyan, apong! Baka mapaso ka!" He used to fuss like that a lot. He always wanted to make sure that I never got hurt or even tired.
When I think back on it now, I don't think he was a particularly creative cook. He didn't have a lot of recipes under his belt, just a few stock ones he'd keep coming back to. These were probably dishes he'd learned how to make over the years, favorites of his five daughters and one son, dishes that were scheduled or randomized throughout the entire week of family meals. Ginisang upo, caldereta, adobong baboy, adobong pusit, dinuguan. Even the quick and lazy piniritong galunggong for when he was in a hurry. He used to cook me these things too. I liked his adobong pusit more than his adobong baboy, I didn't quite like his ginisang upo (I thought he cooked it too long and the vegetables lost their crunch), I was quite fond of his caldereta, and I never understood why he would dip his fried galunggong in banana catsup (something all his daughters seem to have picked up). But without a doubt my favorite thing he used to make was the dinuguan. It was just the right mix of sweet, sour, salty and spicy (he used to add extra chilis for me). He made sure that the blood was thick and rich and the pork he used to crisp up first before mixing in. I think he knew it was my favorite, although I don't ever remember telling him that it was. I ate all of his dishes readily, greedily asking for seconds or thirds though I didn't like them equally, probably because I knew this was his way of showing me how much he cared. Although the fifth or sixth serving was probably the biggest clue.
I wish now that I had tried harder (if I did at all) to get to help him. I might have been able to learn exactly how he did it. I was nine years old when he passed away. Sever liver damage due to his excessive drinking. In his final weeks, he still somehow managed to sneak out of the hospital and go drinking at a nearby bar and then come back to bed in the morning - though that's another story. I don't think I cried at his funeral or when we finally laid him to rest, but I cried later in the evening, when everyone had left and the immediate family sat down to dinner. I've tried many times to recreate his dinuguan though unfortunately I've never been a hundred percent successful. And I'm a pretty good cook too, if I do say so myself. I think I'm a natural in the kitchen (not to mention being the cook means I can weasel out of dishwashing, which is the chore I detest the most). I've come close sometimes, I think, very close, but just not quite. Sometimes, my aunts will try my dinuguan and say "Parang kay Tatay to ah!", which makes me both sad and happy to hear. Memory is a weird thing, and may be I have been able to replicate it already, but whenever I taste the dish I make it still tastes, or maybe I should say feels, like something is missing, and I think I know what it is. I guess that means I'll never be able to make it exactly just like lolo used to make.